Its been a long time in the works, but we have finally broke ground...or should I say wall! If you have visited the Millwork Outlet at all recently you may notice a few changes! You are remodeling our showroom and expanding our office. What is now our front office will eventually be a meeting and storage room while the old showroom will be an open concept showroom and office combined. We got rid of the old ladder that was required to get to the upstairs storage area in the showroom and replaced it with REAL stairs! And the bathroom has a lot more room and a few less bugs in the wall! We would like to send a BIG thank you to Dan's brother Dale for all his hard work over the past few weeks! He has been leading the project and it looks great so far! Make sure you come check out our progress!
At the Millwork Outlet bigger is better! We have bigger windows, bigger sales and this month we hired a bigger milling machine to slab some BIG wood - sorry I couldn't resist a big wood joke. We are quickly becoming the Seattle's best kept secret for beautiful reclaim wood! Not only is our reclaim wood beautiful, but we sell it at a fraction of the cost of some of those other stores with fancy showrooms. So, if you are looking for maple, fir, cedar slabs for countertops, tables and shelves and a little dirt doesn't bother you then make sure you make a trip to Millwork Outlet. The difference in prices and selection will surprise you, I promise!
Just in time for summer projects we are blowing out our reclaim Chinatown pavers. These make great walkways, firepit surrounds, fireplaces, driveways, ect. All the pavers were salvaged from downtown Seattle's Chinatown streets. These are not bricks, they are pavers so they were built to withstand the weight of heavy traffic. We have sold about half of the 50,000 pavers we originally salvaged so we have about 25,000 left. They are $1 per paver which is half of the price of the first 25,000 sold. They have been used in numerous high end homes and driveways and are a great conversation piece. Recently Mastercraft Masonry used them to build one of our customers a rustic brick fireplace and pizza oven - check out the picture below.
Every year around this time the sun starts peeping out from behind the rain clouds, the days get longer and the grass starts growing in Western Washington. This chain of events eventually leads to the dusting off of lawn mowers, weed whackers and garden tools in most yards across the Pacific Northwest. For small engine mechanics this is the busiest time of year and for window and glass companies it means more customers needing replacement units for windows damaged by flying rocks. Since I have already noticed an increase in the number of glass causalities this year I decided to put together a little how to tutorial on measuring glass for replacement units. Sure you can call a glass company to come out and measure up your windows for you. But, if you are handy you should be able to use this guide to help you measure the broken unit so you can install the new unit into your frame and save a bundle of money...which you can spend on getting your lawn mower tuned up or new flowers for the garden. Of course if you get lucky and end up breaking the vent (operable part of an opening window) you are welcome to bring the whole vent into the store so we can measure it for you.
Step 1: Remove the snap bead from the outside of the window.
I use a flat head screw driver or putty knife to wedge between the frame and the snap bead. After you get it loose it should pull right out. The snap bead does help keep the glass in place, but your window should also be secured with double stick glazing tape so don't worry about the glass falling out.
2. Measure the glass unit using the raw glass edge.
The raw edge can be sharp so be careful on this part. Measure the unit from edge to edge and get as exact as possible. Write the measurements down as you go. There is no standard and the measurements have to be pretty exact. When recording the measurements always record width x height.
Step 3: Measure the thickness of the glass unit
Every window manufacturer and series have different glass thicknesses so again there are no standards although they usually come in 1/4" increments. To measure the thickness of the unit without breaking the glazing tape seal we slide a business card in between the frame and the unit and mark the card along the edge of the glass. We then measure the distance from the edge of the card to the line to get our overall thickness.
Step 4: Determine LowE Type
Depending on the age of your window it may or may not have LowE Glass. If your window was manufactured prior to 1990 it is unlikely that it has LowE. However, if your window was manufactured after 1990 then it may have either a hardcoat or softcoat LowE (there are others but these are the two most common). To tell whether a window has LowE you will look for a slight green (softcoat) or purple (hardcoat) tint. If you can't tell, we recommend putting a piece of white paper behind the glass to help make any tint more noticeable If the glass you are replacing stands alone then it isn't as important that the LowE matches the rest in your house. However, if you are only replacing one side of an operable window and the LowE doesn't match one side may look darker/lighter than the other.
Step 5: Check for Tempered Glass Label
If your window shattered when it broke it is probably tempered (safety) glass. If your window broke in large chucks it is probably annealed. However, if your window didn't break and your are replacing the unit for another reason (fog between the panes, ect) then you may not know. All tempered glass should be labeled with a stamp in one of the four corners. Look for the stamp and note if it is tempered or not. There are building codes that require tempered glass in certain applications and it would be shame to have to reorder the same unit later down the road because you missed the tempered label.
If you have any questions on the process please feel free to call us at 425-432-5189 (Maple Valley) or 425-888-5044 (North Bend). If you would like pricing for window units please call us with the above information. To order custom size glass we require a signature to confirm the sizes are correct since the glass can only be cut once. We can accept signatures via email, fax or in person. Good luck and happy mowing! :)
Check out the post on Venise's other blog: The Dairy Queens on how to make your own rustic kitchen cart or island using our reclaim wood.
I am very excited about this week's door shipment. We just received a pallet of 15 lite primed interior doors. These doors can add a classic county look to any space and at only $89 a slab (normally $145 and a two week lead time) it makes sense to get them now. For information and availability call us at our Maple Valley store at 425-432-5189. Here are a few inspirational pictures to get your creative juices flowing. For additional ideas see our Pinterest page!
1. Build an Enclosed Porch or Sitting Area
2. Create a Garden Room
3. Make a Picture Frame
4. Stylize an outdoor wedding
5. Use them for a seating chart
6. Use them as interior doors to create privacy and/or intimacy.
This last Saturday we showcased some of our rustic barn doors and maple slabs at the Issaquah Home and Garden Show. We had lots of interest in our booth and we got to speak to a lot of people about our products and store. Quite a few people stopped just to admire a maple slab we had on display. I had one group of women ask how someone could use a maple slab in their home. The obvious answer is as a table or bar top. Today, I decided to search the internet for some not so obvious answers. Below are just a few ideas I found online. If you are interested in replicating any of these projects or have an idea of your own, come visit us and take a look at our maple slab selection. We can sell you just the slab so you can make the piece come to life yourself or we can complete your project for you.
Home security is a major concern for many of our customers looking for new doors and windows. Statistics of home burglaries suggest that the most common point of entry is doors. Obviously, making sure your door locks are in working order and are utilized is one of the most important steps in keeping your home safe from intruders. In addition to locking your doors, we often suggest our customers consider adding the following upgrades to help keep your family and belongings safe.
1. Switch your door to an outswing door
Outswing doors should all be prehung with security hinges to prevent unwelcome guests from removing the hinge pin from the outside. When hung with an non-removable pin hinge outswing doors create a more secure door. Outswing door thresholds (pictured left) have a hard stop on the inside that the door shuts against. Since the easiest way to breach a door is by kicking it in, the solid stop on the threshold makes the door significantly more difficult to kick in thus forcing them to either pry the door open (which is also easier if the door swings in) or yank them open, which would be difficult if relying on pure manpower.
2. Install a Security Plate
I security plate like the one shown reinforces the jamb so the jamb doesn't easily splinter and break. The security latch is installed between the jamb and the 2x4 or 2x6 frame. Make sure to use extra long screws when installing the latch plate and security plate so that they tie the jamb and 2x4 or 2x6 together creating a more solid framework. The $10 investment could be well worth the money spent should a thief attempt to break in.
3. Choose a door with strategically placed glass
Glass doors can be aesthetically pleasing letting natural light into your home, however, they may not be the safest doors available. For home owners who are concerned with door security I usually recommend a door without glass or a door with glass that is placed high enough so that if it is broken, the deadbolt and lock are not reachable. Craftsman style doors are my favorite choice because they are stylish yet practical in terms of home security.
4. Install Deadbolts
This one is easy! Never buy an exterior door without a deadbolt. Deadbolts are longer and stronger so they are far better than the standard locks. Many homeowners insurance policies now require that all exterior doors are equipped with deadbolts so make sure you have one. At the Millwork Outlet we are in the business of making sure our customer's homes are safe and beautiful so our door shop NEVER charges for a double bore!
Every year about this time the Millwork Outlet gets quite a few customers in looking for windows, doors, ect for their chicken coop projects. We make an effort to keep items in our stores that are low enough in cost to be used in projects like playhouses and chicken coops. After writing my blog about all the awesome chicken coop materials at the Millwork Outlet I decided to build an example. Sometimes I find people believe you more if you actually build something rather than try to tell them how cool it could be. Originally, I thought I would just build the coop, use it as a display and then sell it. However, once my husband and I had put in the time to build it (about 15 hours total) we decided we wanted to keep it and get some chickens instead. We live on about an acre and have plenty of room for the coop and some free range chickens. Going into the project we knew nothing about chickens and how to construct a functional chicken coop. I did a fair amount of research on the necessities of chicken coops on the backyard chickens website which helped a lot. I have outlined a few of the things I learned while building my chicken coop.
1) The coop must have ventilation, which is where chicken wire or surplus windows come in handy.
2) Chickens will poop on anything they can stand on. If you don't want your chickens to poop on it, make it so they can't stand on it by adding a very slanted top.
3) Chicken nesting boxes should be just small enough for one chicken to fit in and should be easily accessible (otherwise they will lay their eggs on the ground).
4) Chicken food and water should be elevated enough so they can't kick the shavings into the water (learned this the hard way).
5) Make the coop so it can stay as dry as possible. Dry chicken poop is tolerable, wet chicken poop is stinky!
6) You will need 4 square feet per chicken if they stay in the coop all day (either due to you locking them in or weather keeping them inside). If they are free range they require less space so long as they have free access to outside.
7) The roosts should be higher than the nesting boxes so the chickens roost and don't sleep in the nesting boxes. The roosts should also be flat (not round) so they balance easily and far enough away from the wall that they don't hit the wall when they fly up to it.
A search on Craigslist is a good way to get an idea for how much chicken coops cost. Based on my searches, the coop we built could sell for anywhere between $400-$800. The cost for us to build the coop was considerably less (so long as you don't add any value for our time spent building it). We were able to keep our costs down by building our coop around the materials we found at the Millwork Outlet. Additionally, we spent some time searching through our scrap wood pile at home. Below is a breakdown of the costs.
If you would like to see more pictures of our coop, the chickens and the rest of my farm animals or read more posts about our lessons learned raising chickens visit my other blog The Dairy Queens.
Step by Step Pictures of our Chicken Coop Construction
A fireplace is often the centerpiece of a room. Most often the room and furniture is arranged around a fireplace's location. Family photos and heirlooms are showcased on the mantel and it becomes a place of interest for your visitors. From an interior design standpoint, a fireplace does wonders in setting the stage for the rest of the decor. Many of our customers come to our two stores looking for ways to update their fireplaces. Often times our customers are updating their fireplace from a wood stove to a gas insert or they are replacing their existing fireplace insert which is the perfect time to also update the rest of the fireplace surround. One of our local contractors, Brad Tufts, with Curb Appeal Construction recently completed a fireplace remodel with one of our custom mantels. He was nice enough to send us some before and after pictures of the mantel he just completed. As you can see the customer decided to have the dated red brick removed and replaced it with a flagstone type rock. We helped him pick out a reclaim timber beam to use as a mantel and found some block style corbels to give it a little extra flair.